Rear diff front bolt........help!!
So I'm needing a tap for the diff housing. Now the spec is a weird one. M14x1,5x65-10.9
So I managed to source a M14x1 tap but it's wrong. Anyone able to tell me the size I actually need? Urgent as required to catch a boat for Ring trip in a couple of days. Cheers |
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Sourcing that at short notice may be difficult, good luck! |
Paul can you show me in the parts diagram which bolt you are talking about ?
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Cheers guys,
Sorted. The joys of friends who own machine shops.....lots of stuff like that so called in a favour and picked a Tap up tonight. :thumbs: :thumbs: Might just make this boat yet....:bigcry: |
Sounds like we had the same issue!! When putting my rear subframe back together there must have been some crap on the bolt and it dragged it all the way through and ruined 2/3 of the thread, couldn't figure out why it was clonking when pulling away. Turned out the bolt wasn't actually doing anything. Got a longer bolt and no longer an issue, but next time it is removed I will be getting an insert put in
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So diff is now all tight but the clunk is still there
You can hear it in the vid in most corners. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SSMAHu9wksE |
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Does it clunk if you put the car in gear, and pull the clutch up and down quickly? Almost like you are slamming it into gear. When I did that we knew there was an issue and it's because the bolt wasn't tight on the threads. Once a longer bolt was inserted with good grip on the threads that hadn't been ruined, it stopped doing it.
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No it doesn't Graham. It's SMG but have tried the same sort of thing. Going to swap out the solid subframe mounts for PF Black's next year and see if that helps. The diff is solid now with no movement.
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